Using yarns that were spun in Gotha, Germany, dyed in Berlin, and renowned for their softness and vibrant colors, Berlin woolwork was the most popular form of needlework practiced during the last half of the 19th century. Though patterns for the work, which were hand-painted grids, were imported into England as early as 1804, and the leading printer of patterns, a Berliner named Mr. Wittich, entered the field in 1810, the craze for Berlin work did not spread until after 1831. Then, Mr. Wilks, a London shop owner, began to import the patterns and supplies in large quantity. Woolwork fever struck the United States in force shortly thereafter. Patterns were printed in Godey’s Lady’s Book and other popular periodicals.

American women produced Berlin woolwork in large quantities. The same technique was used to produce pictures like David Playing before Saul (B.91.21) and Flight into Egypt (B.91.20) created by Mary Ann Crocheron of Bastrop, Texas, in 1852 and 1861, respectively. Woolwork also covered chairs, fire screens, footstools, cushions, and a variety of other items. Slippers were a popular gift, made for men or women, and embroidered with everything from flowers and geometric designs to horses or other pets. Often, as was the case with these slippers, they are found with the embroidery completed but having never been made up into finished footwear, leading one to question whether the gifts were truly appreciated by their recipients. Such unfinished examples made for the Duke of Wellington and a Mr. E. McRae of Perthshire, England, were published.

These slippers were worked of simple, diagonal tent stitches and chenille work. The latter employed a looped stitch, worked over a gauge, which was then cut to create a sculptural, velvety surface. The use of a dark green ground suggests they were made after about 1850 since prior to this time, lighter grounds had been favored.